Air Conditioner ---- Frequently Asked Questions:
1. What is "SEER"?
The seasonal energy efficiency ratio is the amount of cooling that a heat pump
(or air conditioner) delivers per every dollar spent on electricity. In other
words, a higher SEER unit uses less electricity. A 12 SEER unit uses ½ the
electricity of an old 6 SEER unit. After January 1, 1992, the minimum SEER
allowed in our industry for residential equipment is 10. Currently Congress is
considering raising the minimum efficiency to 12 SEER.
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2. How important is SEER?
The least efficient unit available today is a 10 SEER system. This unit is
probably 40%-50% more efficient than a 15 year old air conditioner. A 12 SEER
unit uses 10% less electricity than a 10 SEER and a 14 SEER uses 20% less
electricity than a 10 SEER. Usually the higher SEER (more expensive) systems
are quieter and have a better warranty.
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3. What is "HSPF"?
The heating seasonal performance factor is similar to SEER, but it measures the
efficiency of the heating portion of your heat pump. The minimum HSPF allowed
for a residential heat pump is 6.8. The most efficient HSPF that I have found
in 2001 is 9.3. A small difference in the HSPF number can represent both a
savings on the amount of electricity and the temperature of the air delivered
by the heat pump in the heating cycle.
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4. Do all 12 SEER air
conditioners perform the same?
When comparing different brands of air conditioners, a 12 SEER 3 ton
brand "A"
will offer the same COOLING operating costs as a 12 SEER 3
ton brand
"B". However, one brand may do a better job of removing moisture from
the air. The better the moisture
removal, the more comfortable you
will be-even at a warmer temperature.
An air conditioner that is over-sized
(too large) will cool a home very
quickly but, due to the shorter "run" time,
it will not remove as much moisture.
A slightly undersized air conditioner that must run more often will
actually provide a more comfortable
home, better humidity control, and
at a lower operating cost.
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5. What is a "ton" of air
conditioning?
One ton of air conditioning is 12,000 BTU. A BTU is short for British thermal
unit and is the amount of heat that will raise or lower one pound of water by
one degree Fahrenheit. It is important to note that actual capacity is not
constant and will change based on outdoor or indoor temperature. The published
rating of a unit is based upon capacity when the outdoor temperature is 95
degrees F. and the inside temperature is 80 degrees F.
Also, some manufacturers may call their unit a 3 ton system even though it only
delivers 34,000 BTU. Another manufacturer may be offering 37,000 BTU's with
their 3 ton unit.
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6. How often should
filters be cleaned or replaced?
Filters should be replaced/cleaned once per month. Many "high efficiency" air
filters have a longer useful life. Most of the electronic & electrostatic
filters must be cleaned a minimum of once per month. Allowing a filter
to become clogged with dirt will raise the operating costs of the system and
can actually cause damage to the compressor.
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7. Should a thermostat be
set to "auto" or "on"?
When the thermostat is set to "auto", the fan operates only when the temperature
requires it (whenever the cooling unit or heating unit is running). When set to
"on", the fan operates all the time. You may want the fan to run all the time
to do its best possible job of filtering the air. If clean air is important or
if you are an allergy sufferer, then you should investigate a furnace/heat pump
that includes a "variable speed" fan. The variable speed fan will automatically
switch to a lower speed when possible and can lower the cost of the fan as much
as 85%. This can be a large savings on the power bill for customers who want to
run the fan continuously.
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8. If the outdoor air conditioner needs
replacing, can we re-use the old indoor unit?
All manufacturers require that their equipment be installed as a "matched"
system. In fact, many manufacturers state in their literature that they will
void the warranty if an old indoor unit is used.
A new 12 SEER air conditioner used with a 15 year old indoor unit will have an
actual operating SEER of approximately 8 or 9. So, you will loose efficiency,
increase maintenance problems, and possibly shorten the life of the system by
mismatching a system.
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9. What is my "best buy" in a
air conditioner?
This question will have a different answer based upon the needs of the
purchaser. In the long run, the more efficient air conditioner will provide a
higher Return-On-Investment. For the purchaser who will finance the system, the
high efficient unit is even a better buy. For instance, a higher SEER unit
might cost $500.00 extra which would add approximately $10.00 to the monthly
payment. However, this high efficiency unit may reduce the power bill between
$7.00 and $10.00 per month on the average. This would immediately make the
better, higher efficiency unit have the same or lower net cost.
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10.
Is a heat pump less efficient in the summer than a regular air conditioner?
A 12 SEER heat pump and a 12 SEER air conditioner would cost the very same to
operate during the cooling season. There is no difference during the cooling
months.
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11. I've
heard a lot about new refrigerants. What are the facts?
Residential heat pumps and air conditioners contain a refrigerant called R-22
which is classified as an HCFC. This is an environmentally safe and efficient
refrigerant that will be available as long as your new system will last. There
are some rulings being made by the US Environmental Protection Agency which
require changes be made to refrigerants but not until the year 2020.
Manufacturers will be producing units using R-22 until the year 2010 and the
refrigerant itself will be available until 2030.
Manufacturers are testing many new refrigerants (and have been doing so for over
10 years). There are currently two frontrunners as possible replacements for
R-22. One is called R-134 and the other is R-410A. One manufacturer who markets
equipment under three different names has chosen to offer R-410A refrigerant in
some units and they have given this refrigerant a "name"-Puron. Several
manufacturers offer "Puron" or R-410A systems at the present time.
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12. What is the difference in a
Manufacturer's Limited Warranty and an Extended parts and labor Warranty?
A limited warranty covers specific parts (i.e. compressor, coil, electronics,
etc.); therefore, it is limited by the language in the warranty. Extended
warranties are generally purchased in addition to the equipment. Extended
warranties cover all parts and may also include the labor for the service call.
An extended warranty protects you for unexpected and unbudgeted service calls
for the duration of the warranty. Be aware that no warranty includes
maintenance, shipping costs, and related parts (parts not provided by the
manufacturer). Most labor warranties do not include labor for diagnostics. Most
of the better manufacturer's now require proof that routine maintenance has
been performed on the equipment. If a contractor offers a labor or long parts
warranty, you should remember that it is only good as long as the dealer is in
business.
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13. What size system do I need for my home?
There are many things which will determine the size (capacity) system your home
requires. Some of these are: square feet to be cooled, local climate, humidity,
number of windows, size of windows, type of windows, insulation factors,
direction your home faces, heat producing appliances, and even the number of
people who will be in the home. There are several different types of analysis
that will help determine the proper unit.
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14. How do I find a dealer who will do a
good job?
Ask people you know who have had an air conditioning system installed. Check
with the Better Business Bureau. Use a company that has an established business
and had technicians "on call". Remember that, even a new system, will break
down sometime. It will probably be on a holiday or weekend. The "moonlighter"
or "one man shop" probably will be out of town or even out of business.
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15. How does an air conditioner work?
An air conditioner transfers heat from the inside of a home to the outside.
Refrigerant in the system absorbs the excess heat and is pumped through a
closed system of "refrigerant piping" to the outside unit. A fan blows outside
air over the hot coil, transferring heat from the refrigerant to the outdoor
air. Because the heat is removed from the indoor air, the indoor area is
cooled.
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16.
My air conditioner is no longer cooling properly. What is the most
likely problem?
It could be as simple as replacing a fuse, resetting a circuit breaker or
checking to see if the thermostat is set properly. It could be from lack of
maintenance such as a very dirty filter. If an electrical problem isn't the
cause, the refrigerant may be low if the system still runs but does not cool
properly. This can be corrected by having an EPA-certified technician add
necessary refrigerant. Most likely, if the problem involves any major part,
such as the compressor, you would hear strange noises similar to those of any
mechanical equipment not running correctly, or the unit might not run at all.
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17. Can homeowners repair their own air
conditioner?
In most cases, definitely not. Cooling systems today are more complicated to
service and usually require expert attention in order to comply with federal
regulations, such as the Clean Air Act which prohibits releasing refrigerants
into the atmosphere. An EPA-certified air conditioning contractor or service
technician should be called at the first sign of trouble
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18. When do I know it's time to replace my system?
When the system starts giving you more problems than seem cost-effective to fix,
particularly when major components such as the compressor start making unusual
noises or otherwise indicating need for service. When faced with major repairs,
consider that a new system will eliminate costly repairs and will save money on
your monthly power bill because of the increased efficiency.
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19. Should I keep running my old system until
it wears out or replace it sooner?
Because newer equipment usually is more energy efficient than
older central air conditioning or heat pump systems, you may actually save
money by replacing your old system before it wears out. In some cases, the
money you save in reduced utility costs might pay back your purchase price of a
new system years earlier than you might think.
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20. What is the best type of system to meet
all indoor comfort needs?
The best system depends on many variables, including family size, house
location, design, and utility costs. The optimum indoor comfort system might
include high efficiency air conditioning, high efficiency heating, high
efficiency air cleaning, air purification, and humidification.
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21. How about a little data on SEER
ratings. My unit is 15 years old and I have no idea what the actual
efficiency is?
There are three main ways to determine the SEER of equipment: (1)
find the model numbers of your present equipment and check them with a local
contractor (such as Wall-Turner Company). (2) estimate the SEER based on the
average SEER units produced approximately when your system was installed. (3)
check the energy efficiency label on your outdoor unit if it was produced after
1989.
In the first method, contractors can then consult manufacturer data or the ARI
directory which lists all models of equipment by manufacturers that certify
their equipment.
In the second method, for air conditioners and heat pumps produced in 1981, the
first year SEER criteria was used, the average ratings were 7.78 (A/C) and 7.51
(H/P) respectively. By 1987, SEERs reached 8.97 and 8.93 respectively.
By 1994, ratings increased to 10.61 for air conditioners and 10.94 for heat
pumps.
Remember that The National Appliance Energy Conservation Act of 1987 set a
federal standard of 10.0 SEER minimum for air conditioners and heat pumps made
after January 1992. The fact that, two year later, the average was 10.61 shows
that the best air conditioners available were only slightly better than 11 SEER
in 1994.
In the third method, residential central air conditioners and heat pumps
covered under Department of Energy test procedures and manufactured on and
after June 7, 1988, are required to have labels containing energy efficiency
information.
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22. Should I install a heat pump instead of a
regular air conditioner if I have a gas or oil heating system?
A heat pump can be a worthwhile consideration no matter what heating system is
used in a home. In many areas, a heat pump with gas or oil supplementary heat
is the most economical system.
The above paragraph is the "text" answer nationally. Our answer
is based upon local weather conditions,
prices for local fuels, and past
feedback from customers. The above
answer is technically correct for the
most economical system. However, the
gas furnace/heat pump combination system
will normally cost about $600-$800
more than gas furnace/air conditioning.
I recommend that you spend the extra
money for a deluxe gas/air conditioning
system such as a "two-stage" gas furnace or a "variable speed" gas
furnace.
For the oil furnace/heat pump combination system you will normally spend about
$600-$800 more than for a oil furnace/air conditioner. This is well spent money
if the home is fairly well insulated. If not well insulated, I would recommend
that the extra money be spent on insulation.
A very few energy conscious customers have used these "dual fuel" heating
systems for many years. Most of our customers, within a few years after
purchasing the "dual fuel" systems, have turned off the "dual" capability and
now heat with their gas or oil furnace. The reason given by these customers is
usually that the difference in air temperature (between the heat pump heated
air and the gas furnace heated air) is great enough that they are not
comfortable during times when the system switches from one fuel to the other.
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23. What about having my ducts cleaned?
Duct outlets and registers should be cleaned as part of your
regular home cleaning routine. It's the filter in the system, and to a lesser
degree the grilles and registers at the duct outlets, that collect most of the
dust, and therefore need changing or cleaning.
Supply (hot air ducts in winter/cold air ducts in summer) ducts normally
accumulate only small amounts of dust and dirt because the air is filtered at
the Air Handler or Furnace (the blower unit). Return (ducts from the return air
grilles back to the blower unit) ducts can get very dirty. The return air ducts
are the place where dust, dirt, mold, etc. can accumulate. You can usually
check ducts by removing a few registers and inspecting the ducts from the
inside with a flashlight.
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24. Should my home be humidified?
That depends largely on your personal needs. Humidification is definitely
helpful in many homes during a 6-8 week period during the coldest winter
weather. In the coldest weather insufficient moisture in the air often is
responsible for such assorted problems as stuffy noses, sore throats, more dust
than usual, cracks and dried-out joints in wood furniture, and static
electricity. A good humidifier can cost $350-$600.00. It will be used only
during the winter months and you will need to "clean and start" the humidifier
in the fall. When spring arrives, you must "drain, clean, and shut-down" the
humidifier or it could become a breeding ground for mold during the summer.
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